“Stubborn Salzkammergut”

understanding the SALZKAMMERGUT

One of the new themed trails on the LOSER in Altaussee leads to the unique Three-Province View as a reward.

Requirements: good weather, surefootedness, and a head for heights.
(Open from warm, snow-free spring until late, snow-free autumn.)

The Kulturfux was entrusted with the conception, planning, and coordination.

On this two-hour hike, starting at the new mountain station and leading over the Bräuning-Alm to the SALZKAMMERGUT THREE-FEDERAL-STATES VIEWPOINT, participants are offered a deeper insight into the life, traditions, history, mentality, and current developments in the Salzkammergut region. Whether it was resistance against the monarchy, the Nazi regime, or later political decisions – the people living here have often been, and in many cases still are, characterized by an openly displayed, sometimes boldly cheeky defiance. The almost proverbial resistance and quick-wittedness of the Salzkammergut inhabitants can be explored.

Together with historian Dr. Helmut Kalss, who is reissuing his book “Resistance in the Salzkammergut – Ausseerland”, this path was created. In collaboration with Kulturfux’s trusted partners from the region in the fields of design, text, translation, audio production, voice acting, and other institutions, a fantastic themed trail has emerged. It features a trilingual audio guide (German, English, Czech) and trilingual information panels (German, English, and illustrated) – all culminating in a breathtaking view across the three federal states of the Salzkammergut.

2. OF CELTS, ROMANS, AND MUSICAL “ANCESTORS”

When we look towards the east, we see the Totes Gebirge. People lived in this region as far back as 30,000 years ago. In the Salzofen Cave—not far from here—a very old bone flute was even found from that time. How might the earlier inhabitants of this region have made music.

The Salzkammergut has been surrounded by a special myth for centuries. The ancestors of today's Hallstatt residents were already mining salt, trading, and had a relatively advanced culture 7,000 years ago. Salt—the "white gold"—has always been considered incredibly important and was weighed against real gold. Hallstatt has been a significant mining site for many millennia, as well as a trade hub with connections as far as the Orient.

Even in Roman times, the Salzkammergut was a central hub for the empire. Walk along the themed path Via Salis, and you will find the largest site of hipposandal (horseshoe) discoveries in the Northern Alpine region.

Many centuries passed, bringing with them many different peoples. The seclusion of the landscape, wars, plagues, poverty, but also wealth, shaped the region and merged its people into a proud yet somewhat peculiar and stubborn character.

More information and a few tips:
https://www.salzwelten.at/de/blog/altaussee-via-salis
https://www.kammerhofmuseum.at/
https://www.salzkammergut.at/oesterreich-poi/detail/401023/heimatkundliche-sammlung-der-familie-strick.html

3. SALZKAMMERGUT – The “10th federal state”

“Austria consists of nine federal states and the Salzkammergut. The Salzkammergut, in turn, consists of many little parts within the Salzkammergut.”

… said the writer Alfred Komarek from Aussee,
in “Salzkammergut. Reise durch ein unbekanntes Land” Wien, Kremayr & Scheriau, 1994.

The Salzkammergut spans across three federal states, each having a share in this region, and has an independent identity often stronger than its affiliation with the respective federal state. During World War II and afterwards until 1948, the Ausseerland was part of Upper Danube, or today’s Upper Austria. A vote on the affiliation was never conducted, although most residents wanted to remain with Upper Austria. Despite numerous interventions and protests, the Ausseerland was eventually returned to Styria. Even after the reintegration, there were tensions between Upper Austria and Styria, and some in the Ausseerland still harbor the desire to belong to Upper Austria again. This is also reflected in humorous remarks by politicians. During his visit to the Altaussee fair, former Styrian governor Hermann Schützenhöfer joked: “Since 1948, the Ausseerland has belonged to Styria again, and since then we have been paying a lot of money every year to keep them from changing federal states.”

More information and a few tips:
https://www.museum-joanneum.at/schloss-trautenfels

4. IDENTITY – uboasch, haftig und gschmå!

Although the Salzkammergut spans across three federal states, there is undoubtedly a shared Salzkammergut identity – a very strong sense of “WE”! Historically, the people in the Salzkammergut were often poorly treated by the authorities. Out of often great need, a strong sense of community developed. When someone comes from the outside, people stick together! However, on closer inspection, one cannot speak of a SINGLE uniform mentality of the Salzkammergut inhabitants. The individual places are too different, and even the individual districts vary, distinguished by nuances in language. The dialect still plays a significant role in this.

 Historically, the different parts of the Salzkammergut took on different tasks: In Altaussee, there were the highly specialized miners; in Bad Aussee, the workers toiled in the hellishly hot salt pans, while the already proud citizens strolled at the same time. In Hinterberg (today’s Bad Mitterndorf), among others, the lumberjacks resided.

Through Language to Identity! On this topic, the linguist Prof. Dr. Hannes Scheutz says:

"Dialect is the language of closeness—the language of familiar interactions, the language within small groups, such as in the family, the village, or the local community. That’s what dialect is for, and that’s why we love and appreciate it. [...] In the future, we might not be able to distinguish if someone in Ischl is from Perneck or Wirling, and perhaps we won’t be able to differentiate between a speaker from Ischl or Goisern. However, there will still be regional forms that serve the same function as before, allowing us to recognize and define regional and social identity—the language of closeness."  (Prof. Dr. Hannes Scheutz, Linguist Universität Salzburg – https://cba.fro.at/8999)

More information and a few tips:
Imitate dialects?
https://www.sprachatlas.at/salzkammergut/data/atlas.html
https://www.sprachatlas.at/salzkammergut/data/quiz_info.html
https://dachstein.salzkammergut.at/oesterreich-poi/detail/402256/holzknechtmuseum-bad-goisern.html

5. STUBBORNNESS

… and they do not stop resisting the intruders

This spirit of resistance naturally has historical roots. The harsh landscape, the very unique living conditions in salt production, and close family ties led to a strongly developed sense of community and a special mentality – people had to be able to rely on each other. When the Salzkammergut was taken from the incredibly wealthy local salt stewards and placed directly under the control of the imperial house in Vienna, it caused centuries of resentment and anger. Due to its remote location, the region was largely spared from acts of war, and the residents were exempt from any taxation and military service until World War I. Their skills and specialized knowledge were simply too lucrative and valuable for the state treasury. Entry and exit were also prohibited and strictly controlled. Moreover, the local population was kept on a very tight leash and often had to. endure deprivation and hunger.

Johanna Countess zu Eltz, née Countess Schönborn-Wiesentheid, reports in her book "The Ausseer Land" about the development of the legendary noble family of the Hallingers and the self-confidence of the Ausseer people:

"It seems that the Hallbergs [...] were a native noble family. The first name probably derived from the Hallingers. Even the Greek historian Ptolemy speaks of the Halanes, Helones, a people who lived near inland lakes in the Noric Alps. [...] The root 'Hal' refers to salt. Hallingers later became owners of salt deposits, salt mines, and salt springs. They were united in this cooperative and managed the operation of the salt mines and pan houses. The position of the Hallamt was hereditary in the male line, while the pan houses could also be passed on to daughters and collateral relatives. [...] Documents from around 1500 indicate the great wealth of the Hallingers. Among the oldest of these Hallingers are the Khalß or Khälß. But times changed. In a noble letter from 1449, it states: 'At this time, due to a great shortage of salt, Emperor Frederick III took away the salt industry from the Hallingers.'

"Today, you can still see in some people of Altaussee that their ancestors were Hallinger. Their self-assured demeanor reveals it. They themselves know nothing about it."

Johanna Gräfin zu Eltz: Das Ausseer Land.
Österreichischer Verlag für Belletristik und Wissenschaft, Linz,1947 Reprint published by Erhard Beuchl/Peter von Kuczkowski. Altaussee, 1981.

More information and a few tips:
https://www.salzkammergut.at/magazin/auf-den-spuren-des-salzes.html
https://www.kammerhofmuseum.at/

6. Religion and Rebellion

On Carnival Uprisings and Rebellion

Any form of external paternalism has always been met with near-allergic reactions in the Salzkammergut. The history of the Salzkammergut is indeed a history of unrest and uprisings.

 The new teachings of Protestantism spread very quickly in the Salzkammergut. “As in many mining areas, Lutheranism quickly gained followers, and by the 1520s, for example, Gmunden was considered a ‘Lutheran nest’. The Protestants remained so persistent in their faith that the onset of the Counter-Reformation at the end of the century met with extreme resistance.”

 In Bad Aussee, it was apparently once forbidden to celebrate in the streets – so the festivities were moved to the rooftops. In Ebensee, there was even a “Carnival Uprising” in 1733.

In addition to religious tensions, there were also significant climatic problems. After a medieval warm period, Europe experienced a “Little Ice Age”. The climate noticeably deteriorated in the Salzkammergut as well, especially in the 17th century. This naturally had a significant impact on the supply of the population, which in the Salzkammergut was always dependent on now much more expensive imports.

"Already in 1392, there was an uprising in Lauffen and Hallstatt against their lord, Duke Albrecht III. Citizens and coopers, miners, and sluice workers (in Steeg) and others were mentioned. The punishments imposed by the Duke were harsh: Several rebels were blinded and hanged, others were imprisoned for many years, and the rest submitted and pledged obedience."

 Gerhart Baron: Der Beginn.
 Die Anfänge der Arbeiterbildungsvereine in Oberösterreich. Linz, 1971, S. 46.
(The Beginning. The Origins of Workers' Educational Associations in Upper Austria.)

"Also in the Salzkammergut, during the very sensitive 1730s, there was the so-called 'Shrove Tuesday Revolt.' In the critical year 1733—amid religious turmoil and one year before the beginning of the expulsion to Transylvania—the saltworks administration unnecessarily provoked the workers' anger. Traditionally, the workers were given time off at noon on Shrove Tuesday, with full pay, to celebrate. In an exaggerated effort to save money, they wanted to cut the approximately 36 gulden cost for the entire workforce in Ischl (470 people). This unwise measure, affecting only a tiny expense, was the last straw. The workers left work early on Carnival Saturday, gathered in front of the administrative building [...] and demanded [...] the continuation of the traditional practice. The salt commissioner Seeau in Gmunden got wind of the matter, and since the uprising came at an inopportune time, when a religious rebellion was threatening, he canceled the petty regulation, and as before, the afternoon of Shrove Tuesday was free."

Michael Kurz: Salzkammergut-Geschichte(n).
Von der Industrie- zur Welterbelandschaft. Bad Ischl, 2005, S. 204.
(Salzkammergut Stories. From Industrial Landscape to World Heritage.)

More information and a few tips:
https://www.salzkammergut.at/aktivitaeten/winter/fasching.html

7. COUNTER-REFORMATION

We Will Make Them Catholic Again

The Protestantism that is still widespread in some areas today is another indication of the spirit of resistance in the region. Miners and woodworkers were considered particularly receptive to the teachings of the miner's son, Martin Luther. The Protestant faith was practiced in secret for a long time, in caves and attics. When Emperor Joseph II issued the "Edict of Tolerance" in 1781, the era of "Crypto-Protestantism" ended.

8. LOVE AND PASSION

On rather relaxed moral standards

The entire life was determined by Vienna – by the Salt Office. The still common saying today “Why don’t you complain to the Salt Office” probably reflects the sluggishness of this administrative structure. Even to get married, one had to officially apply at the Kammerhof in Gmunden. Accordingly, moral standards adapted to the bureaucratic conditions. Life on the alpine pastures, in particular, offered a lot of freedom, as despite the hard work, one could determine the daily routine oneself and was not constantly under observation. This freedom, not appreciated by the farmers and away from the farm, represented the pleasant side of the harsh life of the dairymaids and herdsmen, who looked forward to the annual drive to the alpine pastures every year.

 The sociologist Roland Girtler speaks of his research. Here, an older man tells:

“Yes, Theresa, she already had five illegitimate children. I then married her. Most of her children were mine anyway.”

This freedom is still celebrated in numerous songs today. Especially during the time of National Socialism, the alpine pasture was a safe retreat for the resistance fighters.

More information and a few tips:
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=josef+fr%C3%B6hlich+hofnarr
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GW24uR3LR_Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSp5DKjYaM4&list=PLCDWXK8x63EiwFGfeitFxTx9pFBa-T7g-&index=44

9. ROBIN HOOD OF THE MOUNTAINSROBIN

POACHING

A form of self-help and at the same time an energetic form of social protest was poaching, as the Salzkammergut residents, who were constantly in need, were never willing to accept the hunting rights of the nobility.

Poaching was often necessary to provide for family, friends, and neighbors – one could speak of a “Robin Hood effect”. After the war, a poacher was referred to by the dairymaids as their “Minister of Nutrition”. While the hunters basked in the glow of authority, poachers embodied confident heroes who, through cunning, were even superior to hunters and nobles. It was also fascinating to shoot down the “best pieces” from the passionately hunting emperor. Today, poaching has almost died out throughout Austria. The Salzkammergut, as so often, forms an exception here. “We actually have a few cases of poaching every year”, they say at the Gendarmerie in Bad Aussee. (Newspaper “Kleine Zeitung”/District of Liezen, October 1, 2003)

10.   TRADITION AS SELF-UNDERSTANDING

A fun corpse (funeral celebration) “A lustige Leich”

Much of what is commonly perceived as tradition and long-standing customs—such as the colorful Glöcklerlauf on Epiphany—is not as old and traditional as many believe. The fact that the locals themselves take great joy in any communal celebration, no matter how absurd the occasion, is likely the secret of its success. Take, for instance, the nearly majestic Beer Reception: At this spectacle, which occurs three (!) weeks before the Altaussee Kirtag, beer is delivered for the actual beer tent in front of around 2,000 spectators.

Carnival is not just an event but is celebrated as a kind of "fifth season," and many traditions, such as the Narzissenfest, are also organized for tourism. However, despite outward appearances, the locals primarily aim to celebrate and have fun together, even if the occasion is unusual.

The writer Alfred Komarek describes the phenomenon of the "Three Holy Carnival Days" accordingly:

"On the Carnival days—Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday—fittingly but inappropriately referred to as 'holy,' especially in the Ausseerland and in Ebensee, everything is turned upside down. The careful yet determined disruption begins already on Saturday, with no intention of stopping soon. Bourgeois necessities, like sleep before and after midnight, are immediately dispensed with."

Wit and irony were and still are essential aspects of social interaction. Especially in the Ausseerland, there is a tradition of "saying things quite harshly to each other—throwing half-joking bold remarks at each other." It is thus all the more surprising that there is little brawling in Ausseerland. In contrast, in the Upper Austrian Salzkammergut, people are more inclined toward physical altercations. The linguistic eloquence and affinity for music and joking around have historical reasons. The workers had regulated working hours, relatively good social security, and spent the entire workweek together, far from their families. They passed the time playing music, singing, and engaging in various pranks. Many amusing anecdotes have been passed down. Especially in the state-run salt mining industry, miners often took delight in teasing each other, and even more so, their superiors.

Even sad events, like funerals, provide an opportunity for exuberant celebration. For example, the Saline Band plays a cheerful march instead of a funeral march after the burial of its members.

"It's a wedding," answered the innkeepers at the Schneiderwirt to curious tourists asking why there was such merriment with music, dance, and singing. The innkeepers didn't dare tell the "strangers" that the Saline Band members had just buried their long-time fellow musician—who himself was never one for sadness.

More information and a few tips:
https://www.bierzelt-altaussee.at/home/
https://www.narzissenfest.at/de/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4tVS11CFuI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m777-bnRZfo

11.   SUMMER RETREAT

Inspiration and pleasure

The Salzkammergut also has a long tradition as a summer retreat for artists and intellectuals. Famous personalities such as Johannes Brahms, Gustav Mahler, Richard Strauss, and Hugo von Hofmannsthal spent inspiring summers here, immortalizing the beauty of the landscape in their works.

Prominent figures also appreciate the authenticity and solidarity of the community in the Ausseerland-Salzkammergut. Their experiences show that in the Salzkammergut, everyone is treated equally—regardless of social status or background. The region has long been accustomed to somewhat eccentric personalities, and this is accepted with a relaxed attitude.

Despite its idyllic setting, the Salzkammergut was also affected by the horrors of National Socialism. Nazi officials like Adolf Eichmann and Ernst Kaltenbrunner sought refuge here, while Jewish artists were expelled. This dark period of history contrasts with the natural beauty of the region and reveals the complexity of its heritage.

The literature and art of the Salzkammergut reflect the region's history, culture, and traditions. Writers like Thomas Bernhard and Barbara Frischmuth have portrayed the Salzkammergut in their works, capturing both the beauty and the challenges of life in this unique landscape. Despite all the changes, the Salzkammergut remains a place of inspiration and retreat for artists, writers, and visitors who appreciate its unique atmosphere and cultural richness.

More information and a few tips:
www.literaturmuseum.at

12.   Myths

The “Hedgehog”, Gold in lake Toplitz, and other myths

Nazi gold in Lake Toplitz, perfectly forged pound notes intended to devastate the Allied economy with massive inflation, and mysterious deaths—years after the war and in connection with these events. Immeasurable treasures that were stored in the salt mines of Altaussee and Bad Ischl and were saved from destruction by the Nazis at the last minute through courageous intervention. People who had to flee abroad a few months after the war because they knew too much about the whereabouts of these invaluable treasures.

In the final months before the end of the war, the Salzkammergut was increasingly drawn into the whirlwind of rapidly unfolding events. Even today, there are many rumors and myths about incredible treasures hidden by fleeing Nazi officials or exile governments, either to later reclaim them for a potential Fourth Reich or merely for personal gain. Occasionally, one can still see people casually wandering through the woods with metal detectors.

The idea of the Salzkammergut as a potential atomic target during World War II is a frightening one. The notion that the Allies might have considered using an atomic bomb in this region to destroy a possible Nazi Alpine fortress was indeed real. One of the two atomic bombs was originally intended for Europe. However, the development of the bombs took too long, and by then, the Salzkammergut had already been taken over by the resistance movement and liberated by the Allies.

Another myth surrounding the Salzkammergut is the possible involvement of the Nazi regime in developing an atomic bomb. There is speculation that Nazi scientists might have worked on a tactical atomic bomb, although such claims are met with skepticism. The facility in Ebensee was initially intended for the production of rockets for intercontinental missiles, but it was liberated by US troops before it could become operational. Nevertheless, the region remains a symbol of the horrors of the Nazi regime and the resistance against its tyranny. Despite the dark events, there are also stories of resistance and humanity. People who tried to help concentration camp prisoners by secretly providing food or organizing escape opportunities show humanity even in the darkest hours of history.

More information and a few tips:
https://www.memorial-ebensee.at/index.php/de/start-gedenkstaette
https://www.mauthausen-memorial.org/de

13.   RESISTANCE

Against national socialism

As beautiful as the view of the three federal states of Styria, Upper Austria, and Salzburg is from here, we must revisit a dark chapter in history. From here, you can see the legendary Blaa-Alm, the so-called Igel, a refuge for the resistance fighters, and the Altaussee salt mine, where priceless artworks were saved from senseless destruction.

The resistance against Hitler in the Salzkammergut during World War II is a complex topic that raises many questions. The definition of resistance can vary depending on the perspective, but most historians consider activities such as printing flyers, draft evasion, illegal slaughtering, and recruiting allies as forms of resistance. In this regard, there was undoubtedly resistance in the Salzkammergut throughout the entire dictatorship.

The sentiment in the Salzkammergut against the Nazi regime changed soon after the Anschluss of Austria. The residents of the region had a long tradition of resistance against oppression and a strong sense of solidarity due to the structures of salt mining and its associated industries. The left-leaning orientation of the region also contributed to the fact that many people were hostile to the Nazi regime.

The initially predominantly communist resistance became increasingly invisible due to the regime's persecution, but the groundwork for widespread resistance had been laid. Over time, the resistance gained more and more support from the population, and by 1941 at the latest, the mood had turned against the regime. Political affiliation played a lesser role than human solidarity and the tradition of resistance in the Salzkammergut.

The resistance movement was broad and crossed political and religious boundaries. The organization was decentralized, and many resistance fighters knew only a few of their comrades.

The widespread support from the population made it possible for many people to hide from the regime. No spectacular actions were carried out to avoid reprisals and to win the population over to the idea of a new, free Austria.

Toward the end of the war, more and more people joined the resistance, often simply out of a desire to survive. Despite all the efforts of the regime, the network of resistance was never completely destroyed. The events in the last weeks of the regime in the Salzkammergut are characterized by contradictory statements. There are many myths and legends, but the exact truth often remains in the dark. Nevertheless, it is important to preserve the various memories for posterity. After the war, the topic of resistance was often suppressed and equated with a communist stance. This led to a distorted view of the resistance movement, which was often misunderstood by historians. It is important to correct these misunderstandings and appropriately acknowledge the diversity of resistance in the Salzkammergut.

Movie tip: “Secret in the Mountain” by Gabriela Zerhau
Book recommendation: Dr. Helmut Kalss „Widerstand im Salzkammergut-Ausseerland“

14.   The view of the three federal states

This unique view can only be experienced on-site, as a reward.

Here, our journey ends. You can also choose the scenic path to the left back to the mountain station of the Loser Panorama Cable Car. Please note that this route requires a head for heights and surefootedness. I wish you a wonderful time and many more exciting discoveries in the Salzkammergut!

We look forward to lots of photos / snapshots of the view, the bench below #loser_altaussee #dreibundesländerblick #widerspenstigessalzkammergut

Beauftragt von der LOSER BERGBAHNEN GMBH & CO KG

PROJEKTTEAM:

Auftraggeber: Loser Bergbahnen GmbH & Co KG

Konzeption/Redaktion/Projektleitung: KULTURFUX – Die Ausstellungsmacherin, Gampern

Wissenschaftliche Leitung, Inhalte, Sprachaufnahme Deutsch und Englisch: Mag. Dr. Helmut Kalss, Altaussee

Lektorat und Übersetzung: eo communications, Strobl

Grafische Gestaltung: DESIGNEREI, Bad Aussee

Druck Tafeln: SimplySign Werbe GmbH, Aigen im Ennstal

Audioguideproduktion:
ATP-Records, Altaussee (Englisch, Tschechisch); Günter Kaindlstorfer, Wien (Deutsch); Eva Beerova & Pavel Snobl (Tschechisch), Sarah Raich (Englisch), Hearonymus (Audioguide-App)

DREI-BUNDESLÄNDER-BLICK Holzbank: Woodywood – Alfred Bley, Ebensee

Transport: Heli Austria GmbH, St. Johann im Pongau

Gefördert als Leaderprojekt der LEADER Regionalentwicklung Ennstal-Ausseerland